Old Port of Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus

Kyrenia in North Cyprus is one of the secret treasures of the eastern Mediterranean. Kyrenia harbour is one of the most serene, picture-perfect horseshoe waterfronts in Europe. Wooden fishing vessels are moored where boats have berthed for millennia. The selection of fine waterside restaurants under awnings provide the perfect place to watch the old harbour and enjoy a glass of wine overlooking the deep blue Mediterranean sea.

The town used to be a famed tourist destination but following the war and partition of Cyprus in 1974-6, Kyrenia (known as Girne in Turkish) slept quietly under the baking Mediterranean sun. In recent years tourism has revived. While all flights to North Cyprus must still land at Turkey, the onward journey to Ercan Airport is short and many tourists are enjoying the unspoilt northern side of Cyprus once again.

North Cyprus sits on the cusp of civilisations, a part of the Near East that is closer to Turkey and Syria than any other country. Three thousand years ago Phoenician kings ruled Cyprus and three centuries before Christ, the great Stoic philosopher Zeno held court here. Since then the island has been a cockpit of warring empires, with Hellenic cultures, the Roman Empire, Venetians, Crusaders and Turks clashing and warring over this barren, sun-scorched island. They have left history, literally, everywhere.

The highlight of all Kyrenia holidays is undoubtedly the Venetian castle, standing like a dread guardian of the old port. The walls represent brute strength and the castle remains a forbidding and powerful monument. It may not (like its nearby counterparty at Famagusta) have had a genius such as Leonardo da Vinci advising on its design, but it is still a compelling fortress.

Take your time in scrambling the maze of courtyards, watchtowers, staircases and ramparts. This can be a difficult business in the heat of summer (when 110F is a common temperature) but the spectacular views of the harbour are worth it - as the photograph shows. It is worth stopping for a refreshing Turkish tea in the shady central courtyard of the old castle. Kyrenia, for all its beauty as an old port, can only be properly understood as a naval port. Even the picturesque little tower on the old pier at the harbour's entrance was a weapon of war. It was used to pull a chain across the water, thereby denying access to - or decapitating - any invading ships.

For a unique time-travel experience into the ancient world, the Kyrenia Shipwreck Museum is an essential visit. Here a 2,300 year old ship has been recovered from the seabed in the harbour and painstakingly recreated. This is a fascinating snapshot of the ancient world - with almonds, amphorae and produce restored by archaeologists from the University of Pennsylvania. No skeletons were ever found in the wreck, so it is hoped that all the crew were able to swim to safety in the harbour.

In short, Kyrenia is a slice of Mediterranean paradise that is untouched by the concrete behemoths and over-development that has blighted so many parts of this beautiful island. It is certainly worth visiting before the developers and bulldozers get here first.

Northern Cyprus holidays should not begin and end with Kyrenia harbour. The North's finest attractions include the serene tranquility of ruined Bellapais Abbey and the mosques and historic streets of old Famagusta, where Leonardo da Vinci worked as a military adviser. The castle here is another gem.

North Cyprus in the summer heat is an elemental place, of bright blue sea, burning sun and barren dusty rock. It is recommended to visit in late Spring or early Fall for pleasant sunny weather without extreme temperatures. More information can be found at the North Cyprus tourism website, although the author can take no responsibility for external links.

The old Roman city of Salamis is another magnificent location - a thriving port of art and culture where St.Paul famously preached, this city was consumed by a tsunami in ancient times. It was then covered by sand dunes for centuries. Today it has been rescued and great columns and ampitheatres frame some of the finest Roman ruins in the world.

The Castle of St. Hilarion is another splendid destination - a mountain fortress atop a mountain nearly two and a half thousand feet above the coastline far below. It is no hyperbole to rank this as one of the world's finest castles.

Along with the beautiful Maltese archipelago, there is no doubt that Cyprus is one of the most beguiling and exotic islands in the Mediterranean.